- Plexiglass selection
- Glue selection
- Necessary tools
- Terrarium manufacturing steps
- Features of the arrangement of terrariums depending on their purpose
- Features of the manufacture of decorative terrarium
- Terrarium for land tortoise
- How to make a terrarium with your own hands
- Terrarium arrangement
- Terrarium for snakes
- Aquarium Making
Plexiglas is the most suitable material for a terrarium
The most suitable and affordable materials for creating terrariums are silicate and organic glass.
- It is more difficult to break it than ordinary silicate;
- Capacities made of plexiglas, well accumulate heat and are reluctant to give it to the surrounding space;
- Its fragments rarely form sharp edges, which can be cut;
- Plexiglass is easier to process and fasten.
Plexiglas have fewer shortcomings than advantages, but each of them can become critical for a terrarium.
- Plexiglass is easy to scratch. Therefore, it can only be washed with a soft sponge or gauze;
- The surface of plexiglas becomes cloudy over time and begins to turn yellow;
- Ultraviolet rays are harmful to plexiglass.
Thus, plexiglass is a good material for terrariums, whose inhabitants can not scratch the walls. It can be spiders, snakes, achatines. For the manufacture of terrariums in which animals with sharp claws (lizards or turtles) will live, you should choose a different material.
In addition to plexiglass itself, you will need plastic corners and a metal mesh for ventilation. For the manufacture of doors, two types of E plastic profiles are needed. The top profile should be 2 times deeper than the bottom. The size of both profiles corresponds to the thickness of the material for the doors.
In order to choose the right plexiglass for the terrarium, you need to know that it is of two types. injection and extrusion. Injection is more expensive, but devoid of most of the above disadvantages. It is stronger than extrusion, less cloudy. Some brands pass UV rays well and do not collapse under their influence. Therefore, it is worth choosing those brands of injection plexiglas that are characterized by strength, preservation of transparency and do not restrain UV rays. Sheet thickness should not be less than 5 mm.
The glue must meet two characteristics:
- To be harmless to living organisms, not to emit chemicals when in contact with litter, water or excrement;
- Be durable and water resistant.
In practice, any silicone sealant for gluing terrariums or aquariums meets these conditions.
When working with such sealants, care must be taken, since drops that have solidified on the material are difficult to clean.
To create a glass terrarium, you will need the most common tools.
- Glass cutter;
- Sharpening stone fine-grained or sandpaper;
- Glass marker;
- Sharp knife;
- Heavy rectangular object;
- Duct tape;
- Sharp scissors.
You also need to take at least two rags: one. in order to wipe the glass, another. for other surfaces and hands.
Terrarium manufacturing steps
To begin the manufacture of the terrarium should be from the drawing. On a sheet of paper or using a computer program, you need to draw each side of the box with the dimensions, as well as a general view of the assembled form, with the sides marked. You can take ready-made sizes recommended for keeping the future pet, or you can calculate it yourself based on the content and conditions of a particular apartment.
Then, using a ruler and a marker, they draw out the details and cut them out. If there must be a hole in the part, it is drilled before gluing begins. The edges of the glass parts are treated with a grindstone or sandpaper. In order to avoid glass dust, this is done under a stream of running water from the tap. After that, the parts are dried and degreased with gluing places with acetone.
The parts are joined with glue. It is applied to fat-free edges, after which the parts are pressed against each other and fixed. This is easiest to do with tape and a heavy rectangular object.
Connection of terrarium parts
Excess glue is not erased. it is carefully cut off after the parts have completely dried. Glued surfaces are not recommended to be pressed against each other closely, between them there should be a layer of glue in 1-2 mm.
In this way, a box with a built-in fence-ventilation is assembled and proceed to the manufacture of doors. To do this, a deep profile is glued to the ceiling below
Gluing deep dip
A shallow profile is applied to the upper part of the front corner of the ventilation fence.
Small profile gluing
Doors are inserted into the grooves of the profiles. The result is such a design.
Production of fence-ventilation
This design uses flow ventilation. The principle of operation is that the air enters one hole and leaves the other, thus creating a constant current. Arranging flow ventilation is very simple, and in terms of efficiency it exceeds ventilation through the open cover. But there are two points that must be observed.
- The air inlet is located below. The outlet should be 1.5–2 times larger and be on top. It is optimal to place it near a heat source;
- Holes cannot be placed so that they are opposite to each other, otherwise the air flow will create a draft, harmful to most insects and reptiles. The most correct option. the inlet is located on the side wall from below, at the ground level, and the outlet. on the opposite wall at the very top.
Instead of one large one, you can make several small holes. An aluminum mesh is best suited for their closure. Plastic and synthetic are fragile, iron rusts under the influence of moisture.
Via flow ventilation, humidity can also be controlled. To reduce humidity, it will be enough to increase the number or overall density of the ventilation holes, to increase. reduce.
To create a ventilation fence, two additional details must be cut. a strip under the doors and a ventilation panel of a rectangular shape.
They are glued at the stage when the structure has only a bottom, a back and a side wall.
Two walls are already there
Then paste the second wall. Using corners and glue, a metal mesh is attached to the upper parts of the ventilation parts.
Metal mesh installation
After that, they proceed to the manufacture of the roof. Both parts are glued to the resulting frame, between which, with the help of corners and glue, a grid is fixed for the outlet.
The design is left for a day to dry, then the edges of both holes are strengthened with glass strips.
Glass strip reinforcement
Making a terrarium cover
Often a terrarium is made without doors, but with a removable lid. The advantages of this design are that cartridges for heating lamps and fixtures for appliances, as well as fans for forced ventilation, are built into the lid.
Forced ventilation is used in large structures. Ventilation is carried out using two fans. The first contributes to the influx of fresh air from the outside, the second. mixes it inside the structure. For the terrarium, any brands that combine small sizes and low noise levels, for example, cooling fans for system units, are suitable.
A good material for the lid is foamed PVC, another non-toxic plastic is suitable
The height of the lid is selected with the calculation of the equipment that will be attached from below, length and width. dimensions of the terrarium with an increase in the thickness of the material. Details are cut and glued in the same way as the glass parts of the terrarium. In the finished cover, holes are made for the wires and a hatch is cut out. After that, the lamps are built in. The wires must be carefully insulated, glued to the cartridges on a piece of plastic so that there is a gap between the heating elements and the cover.
Features of the arrangement of terrariums depending on their purpose
Closed terrariums are better suited for turtles
Turtles do not tolerate the microclimate of the average Russian apartment. Therefore, open terrariums do not suit them. it is difficult to maintain the necessary temperature and humidity in them. Good conditions can only be created for a turtle in a closed terrarium.
The dimensions of the minimum terrarium for the turtle are calculated as follows. The length will be equal to the length of the turtle, multiplied by 5, and the width. the width of the turtle multiplied by the same value. Turtles do not need a large height, terrariums, even for large individuals, are impractical to do above 50 cm.
When choosing a material for the walls, it must be taken into account that turtles do not always adequately perceive transparent barriers and can beat against them for a long time. Therefore, opaque materials are preferred. To improve inspection, the front wall can be made of glass. Plexiglass is not recommended, as turtles can scratch it with its claws.
Turtles need very good ventilation, so the top, through the lid, is not suitable. Need flowing.
The temperature in the place of keeping the turtle should not fall below 22 C. Therefore, heating is required. Thermal mats and similar devices for lower heating are not used, since the heat flows coming from below can cause kidney diseases. Heating should be top. To do this, you can use a conventional 60 W incandescent lamp or an ultraviolet lamp. These reptiles like the most uneven heating, when half for wakefulness and food intake is warmer, and half for sleep is colder, so the lamps are located near one of the walls.
The choice of a terrarium for a lizard depends on its type
The form of the terrarium for lizards is chosen depending on their species. Woody needs a vertical terrarium, in which the height will be at least twice the width, above ground. vice versa
For small lizards, especially those who like to climb, one of the side walls can be made of metal mesh. The diameter of the cells should be such that the reptile could not get out, but freely clung to the paws. From the same mesh, you can make a cover. Such designs are suitable for keeping reptiles, the optimum temperature for which is not too different from room temperature.
However, mesh walls are not suitable for keeping iguanas and chameleons. The room air is too dry and cold for them. In order to maintain the microclimate necessary for these reptiles, the walls are made of plywood, organic or silicate glass.
Iguanas are kept in horizontal terrariums. For one adult reptile older than one and a half years, the sizes should be as follows: 200x200x125 cm. When kept in smaller rooms, iguanas lose their appetite, move little and lose their resistance to disease.
Small terrariums are also not suitable for keeping agamas, the minimum volume for keeping an adult. 200 l Must have a built-in ultraviolet lamp. Stones with a heating element inside are not suitable for heating; you need to take a lamp for a terrarium or an ordinary incandescent lamp. Agamas do not like humidity and cold, so you need to equip the terrarium with a thermometer and a hygrometer.
For spiders and snails, horizontal terrariums are suitable without doors, but with removable covers.
The tarantula does not need a large space
Tarantulas are capricious in content, any deviations from the required humidity and temperature in the terrarium can cause their illnesses. They do not tolerate drafts or stagnant air. Therefore, it is best to equip the terrarium with a heater with automatic temperature control and a hygrometer.
Large volumes of tarantulas are not needed, in nature they spend their whole life in shelters. The minimum bottom area is equal to the span of the legs of the spider multiplied by 2.
Achatina need a house with a large bottom area
For Achatina, rectangular terrariums with a large bottom area are needed. A large supply of oxygen to these snails is not needed. For ventilation, a flow system is used, the places of air inlet and outlet are rows of holes 3-4 mm in diameter.
Features of the manufacture of decorative terrarium
Either a teapot, or a terrarium
Terrariums serve not only for the maintenance of reptiles and insects. Decorative terrariums can contain only plants and decor elements. For their manufacture take any glass container, preference is given to non-standard items. The video explains how to make a mini-terrarium with backlight from an incandescent lamp.
Video: DIY terrarium from a light bulb
As you can see from the article, making a terrarium with your own hands is simple, and even a person who does not have such experience can handle it.
Before you start a pet, you need to learn as much as possible about its nutrition, conditions and living standards. Keep cold-blooded reptiles and amphibians (toads, crocodiles, turtles) in special terrariums made of plywood, particleboard, plexiglass. A very important component is the correct choice of humidity and temperature conditions.
Types of Terrariums
The vertical terrarium is suitable for animals that lead a tree lifestyle, for example, iguanas, some snakes. The horizontal type is intended for geckos, monitor lizards, that is, for pets who live in natural conditions for the most part on earth. The cube version is universal, as it suits almost everyone, including reptiles living in the ground. If you decide to have a caiman or a waterfowl, then you will need an aquaterrarium.
How to make a terrarium for a turtle with your own hands?
How to equip a terrarium for a turtle? Everything is very simple. If your turtle is one of the land, then in order to save, you can make a terrarium not from plexiglass, but from plywood. The larger the capacity, the better for the pet. In this case, we proceed to the construction of the product with dimensions 87x47x48 cm.
- Remember that all materials must be environmentally friendly. The bottom and three walls will be made of plywood, the front part. of glass. We take the base of 87×47 cm and liquid water-based nails.
- We glue it on the base, and then we nail on the bar on each side. They will serve as support.
You need to make the top cover if you have, for example, cats, dogs, birds.
Plywood needs to be pasted over with a film imitating a tree, for example.
How to make a terrarium?
This article is for those who want to take care of a cozy house for their exotic pet. I will tell you how to make a terrarium for a turtle and for a snake. You will learn about what materials and tools are needed for this and, of course, you will find in the article a detailed technology for the manufacture of terrariums.
Terrarium for land tortoise
First of all, we need the appropriate capacity. This can be, for example, a sufficiently capacious glass or plastic container. In terms of materials, turtles are quite unpretentious, and in this case it will be much more convenient for you to take care of your pet and clean it. As for wood, this excellent environmentally friendly material is not entirely suitable here, since cleaning in a wooden box is much more difficult. Consider another point that the animal can get a splinter when rubbing against a tree. Of the forms, a rectangular aquarium is best suited. you can use the old one, the main thing is that it be tight enough. However, any container can be sealed manually. using special grouts.
How to make a terrarium with your own hands
So, the capacity is selected, now prepare the following: building grout, sealant or glass glue or liquid nails, soil for the terrarium (sawdust, sand, stones) and a lamp for heating. we will have a separate discussion about the lamp, but for now we proceed to the preparation of the container itself. First you need to seal the container. If you notice that there are gaps in it (for example, in the bottom or in the walls), you must definitely seal them with building sealant, glass glue or liquid nails. There are two reasons for this. Firstly, it will be easier for you to take care of the turtle, and its allocation will not leak out. And secondly, so the animal will not be able to get hurt. That is why if you use a glass aquarium for a terrarium, you must also check if there is sharp glass on the surface.
Terrarium for snakes
Snakes require completely different terrariums, since they are much more whimsical creatures than turtles. over, the choice of a terrarium for a snake directly depends on its type. For many types of snakes (snakes, snakes), a wooden structure is also suitable, however, for example, for a water boa, a tree as a base is completely unsuitable. The fact is that this snake spends a lot of time in water, so the terrarium for it needs to be selected from glass. for example, silicate glass. For the rest of the snakes (who do not like water too much), you can make a terrarium from wood, and from PVC (plastic), and even from particle boards (chipboard), but even materials such as brick or concrete. The size of the terrarium should have been sufficient to make the snake comfortable in it. Therefore, experts strongly do not recommend keeping large and even medium snakes in city apartments. your wards will only suffer from this. And a little more about the form: if you bought a tree snake or a loving climb on trees, then the terrarium should be made vertical or, at least, cubic. For other species, the usual rectangular shape is also suitable.
The manufacturing technology of such a terrarium will, of course, be different from the manufacturing technology of a terrarium for turtles. Firstly, in such a terrarium there must be a shelter for the snake, it should be equipped not only with the upper, but also with the lower heating, and in the terrarium for the reptile there should be good lighting, a humidification system and even an air compressor and thermostat. All this is necessary in order to maintain conditions for the snake as close to natural as possible. Please note that over the entire area of the terrarium it will be necessary to arrange the devices in such a way as to create the temperature difference necessary for each type. In other words, making a good terrarium with your own hands is extremely difficult for a snake. However, nothing is impossible, and in order to understand how a good terrarium works. photos, diagrams and videos on the Internet will be very welcome. A good diagram can be found, for example, on this page: Types of terrariums for snakes. I also found a very informative article for you about how ventilation should be in a terrarium.
Do you want to make a terrarium with your own hands? Video about terrariums. including for snakes. You will find on the vast network, for example, on Youtube. An amateur who wants to keep reptiles at home should also see them. To do this, simply type the appropriate request in any search engine on the Internet.
In this material we will consider the manufacture of a terrarium and an aquarium for domestic species of turtles. Let’s start with the manufacture of the terrarium.
Before starting work on the manufacture of a terrarium or an aquarium, you need to calculate the necessary dimensions, as well as take into account all the features of keeping pets, such as the location of the feeder, lamps, shore, house, pond, snags, ventilation and other accessories.
For the manufacture of terrarium materials such as glass, wood, hard PVC and plexiglass are excellent. It is also worth considering that it is better to choose natural materials for the construction of terrariums, since artificial materials at elevated temperatures can release toxic substances.
Types of Terrariums
Terrariums are frame and frameless. It makes sense to produce wireframes if large reptiles are required for keeping reptiles, but terrariums of small sizes are more appropriate to be made whole from glass or plexiglass. It is also nice to use old furniture as a material.
In the manufacture of frameless glass terrariums, only special glue is used, which should be non-toxic to animals. It is best to use silicone glue. Plexiglass terrariums can be glued using organic solvents such as dichloroethane, chloroform with the addition of plexiglass shavings.
Work must be done on a flat table covered with film. Wipe the edges of the parts with a rag dipped in acetone and then with a dry rag.
Getting to the assembly of the structure
First, put the bottom and grease with glue the joints of the side and back walls. Then with the help of glue we put the back wall to the bottom and fix it so that it does not fall. We glue all the walls of the terrarium to the bottom. In order to glue better, after gluing, spray the structure with water from their spray gun. Excess glue can be removed with a clerical knife blade after it has completely dried.
If mistakes were made during the gluing process, and the structure must be disassembled, then all the parts glued with silicone glue can be easily separated using a thin strong thread.
In the manufacture of the main supporting structure of the terrarium frame, metal corners and wooden bars can also be used. Ties and ribs for terrariums, as a rule, are not used. Glass should be at least 4-5 mm thick.
For a comfortable pet stay, the terrarium must be equipped with ventilation. The mesh can be made of rigid perforated aluminum sheet or stainless steel and placed on the sides in the lid of the terrarium, or the front door. The holes in the ventilation sheet should be about 3 mm. The size of the grid depends on the chosen location. So the upper ventilation is about one third of the entire width of the terrarium. Bottom ventilation is made in the form of a “pocket” with a mesh web width of 20 to 50 mm, depending on the size of the terrarium.
The height at which incandescent lamps are installed depends on the conditions of the reptile. Given this feature, you need to calculate the level of construction. So, if the lamp is installed at a distance of about 25 cm from the pet, it is desirable that the height of the terrarium is 45-50 cm, depending on the type of lamp used.
The design must be protected from moisture. For this, the material from which the terrarium is made is carefully stained. It is enough to process wooden elements twice with hot drying oil, and then cover with furniture varnish. The natural color and texture of the wood will look very aesthetically pleasing, therefore it is best to cover the wooden elements of the frame with epoxy paint of a bright and juicy color.
Steel and duralumin structures should be carefully painted over from all sides. Epoxy paints are also effective here. For the manufacture of walls of the terrarium, however, like the top and bottom, you can use multilayer plywood. It should be processed according to the same principle as the wooden frame structures. The bottom of the terrarium can be formed using linoleum or thin plastic. These materials are non-toxic and look great. However, it is worth remembering that having laid such a floor, you need to seal all joints of the joints so that spilled water, for example, from a drinking bowl, does not flow and does not destroy metal or wood.
The design of the terrarium should be developed so that it is possible at its discretion to regulate the light intensity, temperature and humidity regime, regardless of external factors.
The terrarium should be equipped with a door, which should be shifted to the side. The runners from the bookshelf are perfect for this. If you put two glasses, then the door can be moved apart in both directions.
First you need to cut two strips of glass so that the width of one is one third of the total height of the terrarium, and the other is 10-15 centimeters. The glass thickness of the strips should be about 4 millimeters, and the length should be equal to the length of the front panel of the terrarium. The first strip is glued to the ends of the side lower and upper glasses, so that the first cut strip is at the bottom, and the second. at the top as shown. We make the grooves a little shorter and put on glued strips. Now you need to cut two more glass strips that will be attached on the sides. We calculate their width as the difference between the lengths of the front panel and the groove, divided by two. Finished parts are glued at the ends of the upper and lower strips.
Then you need to cut glass on the door, which can be made whole or from two halves.
The door can be fastened using glass holders, then the glass will open on itself or use magnets. However, it should be borne in mind that if the climate in the terrarium is humid, then the magnet glued inside may rust.
If the device of the terrarium assumes the presence of partitions, then they can be made of two strips of glass or waterproof plywood 4 cm high, which are glued to the bottom with sealant with a distance equal to the width of the glass. Between them, glass is inserted, which is sealed with a background.
Partitions will move along the runners, which are glued on the sides.
This can be clearly seen in the figure:
Aquarium. is a great interior solution. Therefore, if you decide to become an aquarist, then bonding the aquarium will be the first step to a new hobby, especially if a design of the appropriate size and configuration was not found on sale. The aquarium is fairly easy to glue on the principle of an open seam.
First you need to determine the size of the aquarium and prepare the glass.
The best material for the aquarium will be glass at least 5 mm thick. The thicker the glass, the easier it will be to expose and glue. Grades of glass that are suitable for the aquarium are indicated in the range from M1-M8. The higher the grade, the better the glass, so lower than M3 is better not to use.
It can be made from plexiglass, but its performance is much worse. The required glass size can be purchased in a glass workshop or cut independently from window glass. True, such glass can distort the surface, which will affect the appearance of the aquarium. For glass cutting you will need an oil glass cutter, a “carpentry” ruler, a square, a vernier caliper, a calculator, and a marker. Cutting should be with a divergence of not more than 1.5 mm. To withstand geometric parallelism, you will need a square and accurate marking for the cut. After cutting, the angular edges of the glass must be sanded in order to remove sharp edges. For grinding, it is best to use corundum sandpaper of the middle number. We put the glass in the bath on a wooden stand or towel and gently, under the stream of water, we rub the edges.
Now determine the size of the glasses
We take the conditional dimensions and consider in detail the calculation scheme. So, for a 45l aquarium you will need it, it is 50cm long, 30cm wide and high. The thickness of the glass is 4mm. Then with a ruler or vernier caliper we measure the actual thickness of the glass. For example, it will be 3.8 mm.
The size of the side and front walls is calculated as 2 X 50X30 and 2 X 30X30.
The size of the bottom will be equal to the length of the aquarium X width of the aquarium is double the thickness of the glass, we get a "clean" bottom size which is 50X30, and taking into account the thickness of the glasses. the bottom size will be 50.76cm X 30.76cm.
To glue the aquarium you need syringes with silicone
Their quantity depends on the volume of the aquarium, so a pair of syringes per 20 ml will be enough for 10-20 liters of volume, It is also necessary to have a narrow adhesive tape, scissors, a clean A4 album sheet, alcohol, toilet paper for degreasing, a pair of suction cups.
As a working surface for gluing the structure, it is better to choose a flat surface about 1.5 m in length, for example, a table or floor. We lay out the glasses, alternating the side glass, the front, then again the side and the front, while you should pay attention to the fact that below are perfectly flat sides. This will prevent leaks. Edges must be carefully aligned joint to joint. The discrepancy on the segments, which will be obtained on opposite edges, should not be more than 1.5 mm.
In order to simplify the work, first stick tape on the glass joints. In this case, make sure that the glass is tightly attached and the edge is flat without distortions. On the bottom side, do not glue the adhesive tape, leaving a distance of 0.5. 1 cm, and on the top side. 1-2 cm. Thus, the adhesive tape will not interfere with the application of glue and in the future it will be convenient to remove.
On one side of the tape, only one half of the tape must be glued; the other hangs in the air. On the side where the tape is located, put one half of the glass, exposing it evenly, and put on top of it the other side where there is no tape. Press lightly to make the tape stick better. During this stage of work, you should constantly monitor the accuracy and evenness of the connection.
Then slightly raise the structure and iron the last strip of tape so that it adheres tightly to the two sides.
Before proceeding to gluing parts with glue, it is necessary to set parallelism. This is best done on the bottom of the future aquarium, laid at the top of the structure. With this method, all errors in geometry and irregularities allowed during cutting will be perfectly visible. Adhesive must be used only specifically designed for aquariums. Otherwise, toxic substances can, in the future, lead to the death of fish.
Before gluing, it is also necessary to make sure that all the corner open, bottom seams were even, without holes, deflections, scoring. The bottom glass should not touch the walls, so when gluing large aquariums, you must first glue small balls of silicone on the bottom edges, and only after they dry, apply the main layer of glue.
We trim the seams so that there are no distortions. Before filling the seams and the bottom edge with glue, they must be thoroughly degreased with alcohol. Corner joints are filled with silicone from the bottom up. The extruded adhesive tape should go continuously and fill the entire space of the seam, the tightness of the aquarium will depend on this. Therefore, the glue should not be regretted, the excess can be removed after drying. Now you need to align the corner edges again. To do this, we use a small piece with a flat surface, torn from the sheet A4 and gently pressing, we carry out in the center of the seam, aligning the silicone. Then with a clean piece of sheet we clean the edges of the glass from the remnants of silicone that were squeezed out during leveling. It is also possible to stick a narrow masking tape on the edges of the glass before applying the silicone so that excess silicone does not fall directly onto the glass.
After you have finished gluing the corner edges, you can begin to fill the bottom with silicone. We fix suction cups to the bottom glass, with which they will rise and lower the bottom glass to the edges. Before applying the suction cup, you need to wet it so that they do not lag behind at the most crucial moment. The glue is applied to the bottom edge, and gently, on the glued edges, lower the bottom glass. Then we remove the remains of excess silicone.
Not earlier than in an hour, one and a half silicone will seize and the design can be carefully turned over. It is worth noting that with a little humidity, the glue dries better and faster. Now you can remove the tape and carry out preventive measures consisting in applying a layer of silicone on the inner corners of the bottom and walls. The applied layer of glue is evened out with a piece of paper or with a finger dipped in water. At the joints of the walls and the bottom, in the lower corners, prevention should be done especially carefully. The seams of the prophylaxis should be smooth, without scoring, or sinks.
Scotch tape must be removed after 3-5 hours so that it does not eat and leave no traces on the glass. In which case, the remains of masking tape can be slightly moistened with water or rubbed with alcohol, it leaves traces on the glass. Water can be poured not earlier than in a day, when the glue is well weathered and dries.
Before running the inhabitants into the aquarium, it should stand for some time with water to check the quality of gluing. If there is a leak in the corner, then you need to take a little glue on the finger and push it into the corner from the inside of the aquarium, while you can not drain the water. If the leak goes along the seam itself, you will have to drain the water and remove a piece of the seam. Then press silicone in its place. There are also cases when small bubbles may appear in the seams. In this case, if there is no leak, it is better not to do anything. Typically, such aquariums are well maintained for quite a long time.